LOS ANGELES — I will never understand the allure of the fat French fry. Steak fries are contemptible. Wedges of bland starch with no crunch, like a mouthful of molded mashed potatoes. There is no ...
The Apennine fries from Rossoblu restaurant in downtown Los Angeles are cooked three times and garnished with fried herbs and balsamic vinegar. (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times ) I will never ...
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