M OST times the barbecues happen where the big mobile pit rests, tethered by a huge chain and lock to a large Chinese tallow tree in David Olmos' backyard. The pastoral backyard in a South Montgomery ...
Gonzalo Ramirez is one of the only barbacoyeros in the U.S. who raises and butchers his own lambs, using the meat to create traditional Hidalgo-style barbacoa that he sells street-side in Los Angeles.
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